Astrance ** (16ieme)

4, rue Beethoven, near Trocadero

This was one of my most memorable eating experiences. And I mean that in the nicest possible way. Astrance is that rare two-star Michelin restaurant that doesn’t feel like it’s stretching desperately for the third star.

We sat down not knowing quite what to expect. When I’d made the reservation I’d been reminded that there was no choice on the set menu. The restaurant is tiny, only about 35 seats, most downstairs with a couple of tables up on a kind of loft. The maitre d’ walked us across the dining room to a corner table, where I sat looking at some typically French perfect flower arrangements, adorned with an herb I didn’t recognize. Though come to think of it, there aren't many herbs I do recognize. But I digress.

The waiter came by and asked about aperitifs, pouring champagne for my parents and a demi-sec white for me. I asked what the white was, and with a smile the sommelier assured me it was good, why didn’t I just give it a taste? And they he walked off without telling me what the wine was, which would normally make me crazy but in this setting seemed more like a fun little mystery to be solved.

They brought out an amuse-bouche, a little shot glass of soup of petit pois, still without an explanation of the evening to come, questions, anything really. It started to feel like a cold shoulder, were it not for the way everyone kept smiling like people who know that you are really going to enjoy the movie, but don't want to spoil it for you.

Then one of the three maitre d’ figures (I suppose they were also waiters, though they didn’t feel like waiters) came over and gave us menus. There were two choices on the menu. The first was the Menu Surpris, for 150 Euros. The second was the Menu Surpris avec le Vin Surpris, for 250 Euros.

I asked the waiter what we should expect, and he answered, quite reasonably, that it was a surprise. Though he then corrected himself (I must have looked worried): “But don’t worry, it’s not a surprise to us.” And he smiled another big smile, so we knew it was going to be one hell of a meal.

I won’t go into all the detail (it would ruin the surprise, after all). Suffice it to say that there were about 10 courses, with every variety of seasonal vegetable, seafood, and veal combination, with a fine dessert to finish. The sommelier poured each wine without telling us what it was until after the course was well underway, allowing to play an amusing guessing game, but also allowing us to enjoy the way the wine tasted with the food, unburdened by any biases attached to the wine names. OK, that sounds pretentious and silly, but it didn’t feel that way at the time.

Dinner took 4 hours, but seemed to take 2. It’s an easy place to recommend, because I can’t imagine anyone not liking the food. Is it worth the money? That is the question. There are a lot of very nice ways to spend 250 Euros in Paris. My personal conclusion - this is one of the best.

A suggestion – if it’s open, have a drink at the café in the Musee de l’Homme at the top of Trocadero, with a great view of the Eiffel Tower, then walk down the street and the steps to rue Beethoven, where Astrance is tucked away on the left.