Ledoyen *** (Champs Elysees)

A Michelin three-star in a superb location just off the Champs, Ledoyen is the kind of place that I wanted to fall in love with, but the chemistry just wasn't quite there.

The service was warm and attentive, the waiters speaking English to those of our group of 8 who didn't speak French (yes, 7 lovely ladies and Blach for dinner; other diners were pondering the situation). And the decor is very nice as well, classic but not over the top.

And it's hard to find fault with the food. Hard, but not impossible. And perhaps that's the issue. At a three star restaurant in the heart of Paris, you expect perfection. Sorry, but that's the fact. And though some of the dishes were out of this world, some fell short of the mark compared not just to other three star type experiences, but compared to some "lesser" restaurants we've visited since we arrived.

The little amuse-bouche appetizers were fantastic, including a little foie gras patty that was actually mouth-wateringly good. And the other starters drew murmurs of appreciation from the crowd. My giant prawns were great, and there were multiple raves about the fresh asparagus (apparently the season has begun in the south of France).

But Maryam's roast chicken, while beautifully presented, was a little soggy. And though my sweetbreads were terrific, the table didn't light up with enthusiasm for everything served.

Desserts were extremely good all around, though some of the more extreme tastes weren't for everyone. I'm sorry to report that Maryam declared her love for her raspberry tart and in fact married it at the table. So perhaps I'm just bitter that any restaurant could steal my wife!

The sommelier was super, recommending two nice Burgundies that went perfectly with the meal.

The cost? Well, if you have to ask .... Giant prawn starter for 78 Euros, that kind of thing.

I should also note that this is the first of the three stars we've been to in Paris, so perhaps we'll come back to revisit this post when we have a better basis for comparison. Don't get me wrong - this is a special meal in a special place. But if forced to choose where I'd have dinner tomorrow night, I'd probably choose Le Meurice, based on our dinner there last month.